Breathless in Seattle

My friend and I took a road trip to Seattle this past week. We were at heart romantics and had always wanted to see a Seattle that we imagined with all the romances and images spurred on by the movie Sleepless in Seattle.

We went by car and got to Seattle in the afternoon giving ourselves just enough time to see the Space Needle and the Chihuly Garden and Glass. We only had a view of the Space Needle from its foot but took most of the time to explore the wonders of Dale Chihuly works.

DSC_0306[1]

The exhibit were arranged by inspirations and themes. There were vessels inspired by Native American tribal arts, then there were sea creatures among masses of tentacles. There was a glass ceiling in an exuberance of colors and textures.

DSC_0310[1]

Then there were a garden of spikes, boats of globes and vessels displaying the layers of veins, splotches, rays and all that could be done with glass.

DSC_0314[1]

DSC_0317[1]

DSC_0322[1]

The garden was an excuse to display Chihuly’s work. The plant choices were clearly meant to compliment the art work with a few towering sculptures which stood quite forcibly apart from any surrounding background.

DSC_0327[1]

DSC_0329[1]

Dinner was a loving affair between Art and Food at Art of the Table on Stone  Way North across the Fremont Cut which linked Seattle to Puget Sound. We had chosen the three courses dinner and had attacked it with gusto! Cilantro cured salmon gravlax, smoked porcini stuffed quail, white chocolate cremeux. A feast for the eyes and palate.

IMG_5619

IMG_5623

IMG_5625.jpg

IMG_5627 (1)

After dinner, we drove to Mount Vernon to stay overnight and be closer to our destination for the next day- the highlight of our trip- Whidbey Island!

We approached Whidbey Island from the North through Deception Pass Bridge. The breathtaking view from the bridge was of an unending vista toward a widened passage among the inlets off Puget Sound. The bridge was nested between two high perched cliffs. The water below came into view as we looked down onto the deep green emerald depths. It was as soundless as  only the most peaceful sight could be or the pace of breathlessness between two gulps of air.

DSC_0335[1]

DSC_0336[1]

DSC_0342[1]

From the bridge, we went on to Coupeville to see its wharf fronting Penn Cove from which mussels graced our lunch table.

DSC_0345[1]

DSC_0349[1]

DSC_0344[1]

IMG_5643

IMG_5647

Double Bluff Beach facing Admiralty Inlet was our next stop. The beach was filled with driftwood. We had our fill with selecting a few light pieces to bring home.

double bluff beach

IMG_5649.jpg

Onward to Langley for dinner at the Portico Latin Bistro and Cantina for sweet potato enchilada, roasted pineapple salad and chocolate flan. Langley also boasted a beach looking out to  Saratoga Passage, one of the maze like inlets in the area.

IMG_5661

IMG_5662

IMG_5663

From Langley, we took the Clinton Ferry to leave Whitbey Island. A careful timing to avoid the peak hours was a smart thing to do as we saw a ferry wait lane along the road which could take 2 hours if it were filled with cars.

IMG_5668

IMG_5679

IMG_5671

The next morning we picked up where we left off in Seattle: Pike Place Market along the waterfront with its abundance of flower stalls, farmer’s market produces, artisan wares and foodie venues.

DSC_0369[1]

DSC_0363[1]

DSC_0365[1]

The trip took only three days including driving time but the images that remained with us varied from cacophonies of color to monochromatic compositions- just like the emotions we went through – from exhilaration to resigned melancholy.

IMG_5686.jpg

IMG_5673

 

Columbia Abridged

Columbia seems to be a popular travel destination lately.  Its popularity is quite deserving but one needs to map out the site visits and not take off on a whim. My trip to Columbia centered on three stops: Bogota, Cartagena and Medellin.

Bogota boasted beautiful colonial buildings in the Candelaria district, great museums such as the Museo del Oro and the Botero Museum and great restaurants. For an area to stay in, we chose the Macarena area for our rental apartment. It was a smart choice because it was within walking distances of many restaurants and had a few convenience stores scattered around. A great breakfast place to try is Azimos. It had great croissants, coffee and artisan products. The mural arts in Bogota are very much part of the City’s attraction. We had a tour seeing different styles, different messages and caught a glimpse of the culture of mural artists.

IMG_4268

IMG_1175IMG_1177IMG_1131IMG_1190IMG_1209IMG_1213

For restaurants, we had great meals at Tabula and its twin Donostia. The only glitch is that the restaurants, owned by the same owner and shared a common wall, also shared the wine list and the dessert menu. Tabula caters to more family style dining while Donostia gives us smaller dishes. A surprise winner is Salvio Patria. The food is lighter and finer in my opinion.

A short day trip from Bogota, the Salt Cathedral is a must see.  It is one of the only two existing Salt Cathedrals in the world. An entire Cathedral was carved from inside the salt mines. One approaches by the Stations of the Cross presented as carved rooms with different cross designs. Then the main nave can be best seen from a balcony above the narthex. The cross at the chancel is a clever design being a negative space instead of a 3 dimensional object. The side approach from the transept is a simple but nice set of stairs. The lighting is subtle and works in a humble way for a place of worship.

IMG_1256IMG_1269IMG_1293

On the way back from the Salt Cathedral, one must stop by Andres Carne de Res  in Chia for dinner. The restaurant takes up about two blocks and is “crazy”- the only word that came to my mind when I stepped into it. There is not a wall or floor space that is not adorned by decorations. The person who pulled the setting of the restaurant must have had a great sense of humor. There are plates screwed to the ceiling, pots glued to posts, thousands of knick knacks found their places where they should not be. The menu is worthy of a Restoration Hardware catalog but much more colorful just like the ambiance of the space. The dessert menu alone is worth another return trip.

Next stop: Cartagena. One must stay in the historical town to fully enjoy Cartagena. The streets are named and meanders so much that one gets lost if it were not for the numbering system implemented later. The area is full of life, restaurants, shops, music, museums and sights. We had the best meal at Don Juan and not too far behind was a Xmas dinner at Moshi. Activities at Cartagena should include a boat trip to islands where snorkeling, swimming, and fresh seafood lunches are offered.

IMG_1349IMG_1351

Last stop: Medellin. We only stayed one night at Medellin so I cannot give a full account on things to do in Medellin. The city is located in a valley and looks dreamy when seen from a higher altitude. The greeneries are more lush than Bogota. The Botero park and the Museo De Antioquia showed us the rest of Ferdinand Botero’s art collection. We had a good dinner at Bonhomia in the Zona Rosa. That area has great night life but if you rent anything nearby, be prepared to hear music till the morning hours.

IMG_1432

IMG_1444

I went on the trip without much expectations having not done the homework myself with all itineraries figured out by another traveler and was pleasantly offered new perspectives,  and sampled delicious meals. It was a treat to be able to visit both Botero museums and park and see a full range of his work. I was very intrigued by the level of modernity seen in the designs of gold work from the Gold Museum in Bogota. I also went shopping in the fabric streets in Medellin but was disappointed at the selection. The high end clothe boutiques however showed fine fabric design which I was not able to find in my short stay at Medellin.

I had a great time seeing the sites, loving the arts from the gold pieces found thousands of years ago to Botero’s sculptures and portraits and street arts, and appreciating the gentleness of the Columbian people. No wonder Columbia is “hip” nowadays.

 

Dordogne Detour

My two friends and I made it to Dordogne in last May. We rented a flat in Sarlat and used it as our home base from which we took day trips to different parts of area. We had a blast even when the GPS from our rental car took us the long way to get to our destinations. We named the GPS Georgette after the Jersey cow because she tended to take us to “greener pastures” where no road signs existed and we were required to go through someone’s private rear yard before hitting a somewhat legitimate road. After a few trials, we relaxed and trusted that eventually she would take us home and were delighted to see the real back roads of Dordogne.

The areas were full of medieval fortresses and hillsite dwellings. The first we saw was Maison Forte de  Reygnac. It was a “Chateau Falaise” built into an existing cave dwelling. The manor was fully furnished with articles used in the period’s daily life. The top of the building was left with parts of the prehistoric dwelling and a magnificent view.DSC_0187DSC_0194DSC_0197DSC_0204DSC_0210

The next day we trooped through the Cabanes du Breuil. These were wonderful 19th Century architectural exercises in stone building. The lower walls were stone with mortar while the conical roofs were dry stacked corbelled vault under stone roof tiles.

DSC_0219DSC_0232

Dordogne was littered with gardens and castles though the castles were not as glamorous as the Loire Valley castles but nevertheless, they were worth a stop. One couldn’t skip the Chateau de Marqueyssac. The gardens were a tribute to the art of topiaries. The 150,000 boxwoods were cut and trimmed, some were grouped to resemble flocks of sheep, while some were of the geometric shapes served as garden ornaments. The property was beautifully situated, perched on a hill overlooking the Dordogne valley and river. A walk around the garden took us through different plant groups, different vistas and some water features.

c65ddfc8607b4b94c137e669c7b9eafc

DSC_0270DSC_0277DSC_0275DSC_0291DSC_0324DSC_0333

Not too far from  the gardens of Marqueyssac was where you could take the barge trip- Gabares Norbert – down the river at La Roque Gageac. The languorous pace of the barge was a nice way to end the day after the energetic walk up above the hills at Marqueyssac.

DSC_0350

Rocamadour was also a not to miss attraction. The village was also a pilgrim’s destination with the Grand Escalier, leading to the Chapelle de Notre Dame with the black madonna statue and the Romanesque-Gothic Basilique of St Sauveur. The town itself was also very picturesque as seen from afar and up close. One could also visit the Maison de Saucisse and shops selling the famous Rocamadour goat cheese on the way back from the church visit.

DSC_0364DSC_0386DSC_0392

France was full of “most beautiful villages of France” but some were not as prosperous as Rocamadour. We went to see Autoire and it was quite desolate, at least when we were there.

DSC_0466

Josephine Baker’s Chateau des Milandes. The highlights were the Art Deco bathrooms! The tour inside the chateau gave us a glimpse of Ms. Baker’s enormous attraction and what a life worth living!

DSC_0574DSC_0576

Another castle to squeeze in the itinerary: the Chateau de Hautefort. The care that went to rebuilding the chateau after a fire was astounding. The garden won best supporting garden in my view but the entry court was no less of a bold move.

DSC_0653DSC_0658DSC_0679

DSC_0717DSC_0752DSC_0683

Alas, the Manoir d’ Eyrignac. A tour de force in garden design.

DSC_0779DSC_0817DSC_0913DSC_0860DSC_0997DSC_0875DSC_0790DSC_0803DSC_0805DSC_0836DSC_0842DSC_0839DSC_0843DSC_0858

Castle visits were my thing so we went to see yet one more at the Chateau de Losse overlooking the Vezere river complete with moat and terrace with quaint gardens. This was a more manageable manor. One got to see how a minor lord lived.

DSC_0925DSC_0934DSC_0939DSC_0951DSC_0973DSC_0990DSC_0998IMG_3363

The best town where we stayed was Sarlat La Caneda. We saw Sarlat on market days, Sarlat on slow days, and Sarlat in the early mornings. Sarlat had so many little streets, and gorgeous details including a remodel by Jean Nouvel at the Ste Marie de Sarlat Church converting it into a market hall.

DSC_0516DSC_0540DSC_0495DSC_0514DSC_0519DSC_0524DSC_0537DSC_0547IMG_3379

One did not go to Dordogne and not think about food. Here was the Perigord, the Acquitaine, but most of all, Foie Gras Country. We went to different towns on its market day and got to sample canned foie gras, bought porcini mushroom products, fragrant oils, and fresh foie gras. Sarlat also boasted the premier Patisserie Mertz. We had milles feuilles, eclairs, and other goodies.

DSC_0167

IMG_3312IMG_3307

At the end of each day, exhausted from the day trips, overwhelmed by the beauty of the sites but at the same time sated from the leisurely pace that we took to savor it, we would ask ourselves: “who gets the milles feuilles after dinner?” and thought to ourselves how this could not be more perfect.

IMG_3349

 

 

 

Cake Repertoire

All through the years, I made cakes. I realize I can’t remember the cakes that I used to make. I find it useful to be reminded of some of the cakes I enjoyed making and savoring. So here are some of them….IMG_4051.JPGSponge cake with caramelized pear, salted caramel cream and rose buttercream

093Mont Blanc

IMG_2535Pave Royal

IMG_2308Tarte au Fromage

IMG_3521Mont Blanc

IMG_3559Pandan Cake

 

 

IMG_3566.JPGLychee and Coconut Gel Cake with Lychee Buttercream

IMG_3599Baked Cream Pie with Roasted Peaches

IMG_3130Onion Financiers

IMG_2104Black Sesame Charlotte

IMG_2044Raspberries Charlotte

IMG_2008Bread Pudding

IMG_0741.JPGLychee Panna Cotta

IMG_0639Green Tea Souffle

IMG_0312Salted Caramel Magic Cake

IMG_0309.JPGTarte au Fromage

IMG_0283Fruit Tart

IMG_0134Peach Tart

IMG_0130Pear Tart

IMG_0026Mandarin Orange Tart

IMG_0021Pavlova

So many recipes to try out, so little time, too many calories…

 

 

 

 

 

 

I Captured the Loire Valley Chateaux

For me,  the most romantic image of a castle had always been that of Chenonceau with its gallery/bridge spanning across the Cher river. Surely, it was not as fanciful as the Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, nor as grandiose as Versailles and nor as meticulous as Vaux Le Vicomte but its singular broadswept gesture across the river put it on top of my list. It was that arched bridge structure that prompted my urge to visit the Loire Valley and its castles. The other castles didn’t disappoint but broadened my appreciation of castle art. Each of the castles I visited had something unique to impart on my novice eyes. I wished I had seen more castles so I could make more comprehensive notes but alas, I only had three and a half days for visits. I knew I missed out on many other castles but a vacation cut short was invitation for a return. A feast would only be better enjoyed if there was room for more. I certainly had room for more of the Loire Valley …

Chenonceau

I was so anxious to see Chenonceau that it was the first one we went to as soon as we set foot in the Loire Valley.  As well photographed and documented as it was, it had a few surprises in its offerings.

The most popular view of the chateau seemed to be the west approach with its bridge on the right side of the castle. I discovered that there was an inlet for boat landings, a little quay so to speak, to the left of the main building. It was nested between the main walk to the main entrance and Catherine de Medici’s garden. Its meandering wall served to lessen the formality of a castle and made it even more endearing by its form following function rather than a need for grand symmetry.

IMG_8195IMG_8198

IMG_8228

The view from the east was no less beautiful but what was missing from photographs was the Diane de Poitiers garden.

IMG_8309

IMG_8295

The bridge itself showed a clever trick to make it seem even longer and more gracious. It had two main stories between the steep roof with dormer windows and the closed spandrel arched bridge with its cutwater piers. The main floor gallery received less ornaments than the Medici Gallery (second floor) enclosure complete with identical arched pediments over each well cased window accentuated by even more molding patterns between the windows. The result were emphasized horizontal bands of seemingly different treatments for each floor which stretched the building longer. This was probably due to the fact that  Catherine de Medici had the gallery  built over Diane de Poitiers’ bridge. The Italian Renaissance building generally had more horizontal emphasis while French Castles dwelled on verticality by the alignnent of windows.
IMG_8212

One couldn’t disclaim the Cher itself being very much part of the attraction. Its languidness flanked by a dense forest invited further exploration. The bridge reflection on the water made the piers seem longer and elegant while the cutwater sharp angles lessened the  piers’ girth.
IMG_8232

The view of the exterior was breathtaking from all angles whether from far away or from inside looking out.

IMG_1206

IMG_8303IMG_8248

The interior was just as tastefully furnished and detailed. The two galleries were spectacular in their pristine white walls, checker board floors and the repetitiveness in their arched window openings. The stone carvings were abundant and deliberate in the stair wells, the ceilings, and the fireplaces. The most remarkable room was the Louise de Lorraine bedroom where the walls were painted black with white designs of symbols of mourning. How befitting that a castle began its illustrious career as a gift from a king to his beloved mistress and ended with the last queen to reside at the castle mourning the love of her life, King Henry III and painted her bedroom walls black with symbols of mourning, tears, feathers, bones and gravediggers’ tool. Diane de Poitiers might have had her signature black dresses but Louise de Lorraine gave us more a lasting impression with her black room.IMG_8225

IMG_8205517919101_3aa242ffb7_z

Amboise

Once we had our fill of Chenonceau, we visited Francois I’s main home at  Amboise. Here was the King who had catapulted the Renaissance era castle business in the Loire Valley. Amboise first fell into royal hands in 1434 and quickly became many kings’ favorite homes. The castle had more High Gothic styling than most castles and received some of the earliest Renaissance motifs in French architecture.

IMG_8332

The chateau was built against a tall embankment. One could look down and see the town of Amboise with its uniform slate roofs.

IMG_8336

I was most intrigued by the stone carvings inside and outside the building. The figureheads in the gargoyles, column capitals and various corbels were quite expressive with a slight humorous naivete’.
IMG_8360

IMG_8346IMG_8342

The garden that we saw was not the original lattice enclosed garden but the twentieth century parterre and bosquet was quite intriguing in its modern minimalism.

IMG_8373

IMG_1271

Francois I who was raised there had brought the castle to its pinnacle. He brought Leonardo da Vinci to Amboise, built an underground tunnel to Da  Vinci’s home  to visit him on a daily basis and enjoyed bringing French Renaissance to its peak. The chapel Saint Hubert where Leonardo Da Vinci was buried was a beautiful gem of carved stones and arches.
IMG_8384

IMG_8327

The town of Amboise was a very lively town with its shop at the foot of the castle. The Sunday market brought all types of food stalls to town. We found fresh mushrooms, piping hot paellas, artisan breads, succulent charcuterie, all manners of goat cheeses and the Pave Royal (nougat cake from Tours).

IMG_8330

IMG_8426

IMG_8425

Clos de Luce’

Clos de Luce’, Leonardo Da Vinci’s last home was nearby and proved to be a worthwhile visit. The castle had a great exhibit of models of the Renaissance man’s engineering designs, his garden and a park showing larger scale models.

IMG_8417IMG_8400

Cheverny

Cheverny, known for its interior, was quite enjoyable. While the other castles were royal castles complete with stately throne rooms and bedrooms, Cheverny was a castle for an aristocrat family who might have lead a more “normal” life without too much pageantry. Even Herge’ thought that Captain Haddock could have lived in such a residence. Herge’ removed the two outer wings and renamed it Chateau de Moulinsart. Alas, I didn’t find any treasures in any cellar when I toured Cheverny though I made a point to re read Les Bijoux de la Castafiore to see if any of the illustrated interiors and castle grounds would look familiar.

IMG_8432

I liked that there were a kitchen conveniently located next to a family dining nook, a very usable living room, a decently sized but not too large formal dining room, children’s room, and bedrooms with adjacent baths. The castle was completely livable as a very large mansion.

IMG_8448IMG_8441IMG_8473IMG_8467

The grounds had a modern garden, a stable, the hound house for 70 hounds, and a very nice vegetable garden.

IMG_8474DSC_6558

IMG_8494IMG_8504

Chambord

Chambord, with its beautiful rooftops and spires and famous double helix stairs, was breathtaking as a unique blend of medieval castle forms and Renaissance details. I was quite drawn to the funnel shaped roofs, the multitude of dormers and circular building shapes interspersed between rectangular wings.

IMG_8506

IMG_1297

IMG_1285

The climb to the rooftop was worth it for it gave me so many vantage points to see the play between the roof forms, the dormer details and the intricacies in the stone carving.

IMG_1307IMG_1310

IMG_1335IMG_1317

IMG_1302

The interior of the castle, besides the famous stairs credited to Leonardo Da Vinci, boasted an extensive series of exhibit showing the history of the French Bourbon kings down to Henri, Comte de Chambord, the last Bourbon claimant of the French Crown.

DSC_6674A

Villandry

Though known for its beautiful gardens, Villandry castle itself was a marvel. The courtyard plan was spared from monotony in symmetry when the wings are not quite equal, the windows alignment didn’t really center on the facade, the angles were not quite 90 degrees and the widened moat on the left side gave quite a reflection.

IMG_8600

IMG_8604

IMG_8537

IMG_8599

One of the loveliest dining room graced the castle in its entirely pink color. The rustic kitchen could easily be inserted in a home in the Bay Area, The staircase was simple but beautifully detailed in its limestone and wrought iron handrail. A Moorish ceiling was imported from Spain to decorate the Oriental drawing room.

IMG_8518IMG_8524

IMG_8522

IMG_8538

No wonder the gardens were a Unesco Heritage Site. The knot garden had four patterns for the many aspects of love.

IMG_1340

IMG_8575

The vegetable garden was a clever display of edibles among cutting flowers.

IMG_8550

IMG_8588

The water garden was unassuming but generous and serene in its layout. The fountain that connected the water garden to the moat was in the form of stairs under a bridge producing a lovely the cascading effect.

IMG_8563

IMG_8602

IMG_8594

There were many castles I would have liked to have seen. Blois and Chateau d’ Usse’ came to mind. I saw Azay le Rideau but it was covered with scaffolding so I didn’t list it in this post. The one thing that stood out was that when I was at the castles and looked out on their surrounding, there were not a modern building in sight. The view from the castles were practically the same view the castle owners had. If there was a view ordinance in effect, the effort was worth it. I couldn’t imagine seeing anything modern that would destroy the magic of the Loire Valley. When I was on top of those castles, I could see forever just as it should be – happily forever after.

IMG_8555

IMG_1322

I came home not a wearied traveler and was already thinking of another trip. When we travel, separated from all comforts of a home, having to navigate a foreign language, and to plan a bit more carefully where to take our meals, we face a  strange mixture of uncertainty and spontaneity. In that wonderful state of being, we are rendered more aware of the people, the surrounding environment and the culture of the place we visit. We stop taking things for granted, we ask more questions, we question lots of answers and we re-engineer our way of living. We should do the same when we return home and resume our daily routine. After all, isn’t life also a journey for which we have to plan the itinerary?

Conquest in Normandie

Normandie – the region begs to be travelled to and yet it took me this long to finally make it over there. When said and done, I admit I was thoroughly conquered by this lovely region complete with its happy cows (yes, I believe its cows are even happier than California cows), apple orchards and half timbered houses.

IMG_8105

I felt that it was only appropriate that the first major sight we went to was Bayeux. We arrived late in the day to see the Tapestry with its great exhibit and thus was given our very first glimpse of the glorious history of Normandie. The nine centuries old Bayeux Tapestry in real life was more magnificent than any photo or history textbook could describe. One had to see in person the intricacy of the embroidery stitches, realize the length of the piece, appreciate the beautifully preserved linen, and revel at the animated faces of the characters and the almost comic like quality that exuded honesty and straightforwardness in the retelling of an epic story. The audio aide that was part of the exhibit gave a very thorough description of the scenes. Afterwards, we enjoyed a great dinner at L’Asssiette Normande and went to see an interesting light show at the side of the Cathedral.

Bayeux itself is a very quaint town. The Cathedral, rebuilt in the 12th century in Gothic style, was quite regal and majestic. One could spend an entire day at the town.

IMG_7828

IMG_7833

IMG_1197

Our next stop was Colleville sur Mer to visit the Normandie American Cemetery and Memorial and Omaha Beach. The exhibit at the Memorial Pavillion was very well designed and informative. The most moving experience for me was the first time I saw the white crosses and stars of David laying across the lawn in an unending vista. I had approached them by the side and didn’t yet have the view of semi circular the colonnade nor of the reflecting pool nor of the mall. Just a view of sky, trees and white crosses. My mind quickly replayed images of young men on the beaches , on the sand, on the landing grounds without fanfare, without glorification. That was when the meaning of “so much owed by so many to so few” hit me. The definition of courage and valor had a new setting for me- that of a small stretch of beach facing a tall cliff between the sea raging behind and artillery shelling in front.

IMG_7859

IMG_7877

 

I was grateful to see the grounds so well taken care of. I was moved to learn about Les Fleurs de la Memoire Foundation which had enlisted French families to adopt the US graves and promise to visit the graves once a year to lay flowers on the graves.

For dinner, we went to a restaurant named La Maree by the boardwalk at Grand Camp Maisy, a nearby town and enjoyed a spectacular sunset. All throughout the trip, we sampled a lot of local delicacies and didn’t have a meal we didn’t like. There was always an apple tart ordered and well finished. We took a tour at a Calvados distillery. We had confiture de lait for breakfast on crepes, on bread and french toasts. We nibbled on caramels d’Issigny and thought the apple flavor caramel was a good combination. We had oysters and seafood platters and gorged on mussels and french fries. We encountered Camembert, Livarot and Pont l’ Eveque cheese done in a dozen ways – on croque monsieur, as desert cheese, in omelettes, au gratin… I came across a creamy cheese with truffles and had it for breakfast everyday until it was gone. I had a perfect Souffle au Calvados at Le Dauphin in Breuil en Auge. With regret, we missed out on lamb from salted marshes at Mont St. Michel. We were one day behind a tour of 300 people who ordered the entire restaurant’s larder.

IMG_7894

Honfleur was our next destination. The old town was quite charming. The marche’ near the harbor was full of life. The wooden church Ste Catherine, built like an upside down ship’s hull, was simply beautiful in its structure and details.

IMG_1016

IMG_7905

IMG_7929

IMG_7936

On the way back  from Honfleur, we stopped by Deauville and Trouville. I imagined jersey dressed ladies walking out of Coco Chanel’s boutique and bathing houses…

IMG_7970

IMG_7985

There were many towns that were delightful and were perfect for overnight stays. We thought Pont L’ Eveque was such a town with the right amount of shops, restaurants and interest. We loved Beuvron en Auge and spent almost an entire day at Pont Audemer.

IMG_7991

One couldn’t go to Normandie and not see Rouen. The Rouen Cathedral was such a monument that inspired many paintings by Monet and Pissaro. This building survived fire, lightnings, and was the tallest building in the world from 1876 to 1880. Richard the Lionheart’ heart was entombed there. This was a church with impressive credentials!

IMG_8006

IMG_8016

IMG_8022

The well reviewed shops at Rue du Gros Horloge didn’t disappoint. We had macarons at Grand Mere Auzou and I discovered an ingenious savory combination for macarons: foie gras macarons.

IMG_8038

IMG_8044

D Day for our Normandie trip was Mont St Michel. We made a point to arrive there before 10 to avoid the crowd and good thing we did.  From the top perches, we could see the salt marshes extending uninterrupted to the horizon. I was overwhelmed by a sense of humility being surrounded by the calm vastness blurring the line where the sky met the salted water. Through the winding walks and steps, we toured the abbey among the simplicity of the abbey’s hall, the bareness of the courtyards and stone walls contrasting nicely with intricate quoin vaulted ceilings and ornate column capitals.

IMG_8052

IMG_8078

IMG_8080

IMG_8102

IMG_1084

Other notable towns we visited were as memorable. The houses were the typical half timbered houses. Some had bricks, some had plaster between the timbers. My eyes never got tired of the textures, the colors and the shapes.

IMG_8108

IMG_8112

IMG_8120

IMG_8126

DSC_5435A

IMG_8157

We left Normandie with a greater appreciation of the glorious history that people have managed to record and preserve, a deeper gratefulness for the young men whose lives were struck short for the humane continuation of that history and an unrelenting reluctance to go back to our everyday routines.  If only time stopped when I caught this image…

IMG_1066

Simply Shaker

Last year I had the chance to visit one of the few remaining Shaker villages in Massachusetts, the Hancock Shaker  Village.  The village boasted one rare building form in its round stone barn.  The siting of this barn construction was just ingenious. The walk through really gave me a glimpse  of the  spirit of the community.  The variety of building materials and the variations of the same simple forms in buildings and details were proofs of how creativity in its streamlined discipline could be divine!

4fc9ea0c2a540ccda9083bb437306d0a

This was the third community out of the 19 major villages that was established in the United States. The thousand acres property existed as a working community from 1791 to 1960 when it became a museum. The inhabitants were dairy farmers who made quite a good profit with the garden seed selling business.  At its most prosperous time, the village owned 3000 acres and had 300 occupants.

Its most outstanding structure was the 96 ft diameter round stone barn that one could see imposing its presence over today’s 5 acres site open to visitors. The design was a most effective solution to having 70 cows being fed and milked, having hay stored and distributed while wagons would be driven in one way and ridden out another way without ever having to back up.  It consisted  of four concentric rings for ventilation, hay storing (up to 400 tons of hay), hay distributing and cow feeding.  A clever entrance was introduced to the second story of the barn via an exterior ramp. The structure was completely exposed on the inside with the rafters radiating from the cupola, the balconies support, and the floor gridded to allow the sweeping of cow manure down to make compost.

209b661e69aab464a208d3da0f5926c1

 

IMG_6510

 

IMG_6514

 

IMG_6518

There was a sample garden on the site showing the variety of crops, flowers and vegetables that were planted by the industrious villagers. The Shakers were major medicinal herbs suppliers in the 1800’s. Their community had a catalog offering some 300 herbs with almost 200 fluid extracts in the forms of essential oils, vegetable extracts, fragrant and distilled waters and ointments.3ae13fc0e86fc362115ca445601d110b

The brick dwelling, the community’s dormitory, was another marvel with indoor piped water, dumbwaiters, slanted windows for more light, all the while maintaining separation between the sexes in their daily activities and sleeping accommodation.

58be1cab357fce869eb5be3e400cd350

47caf9f6531f6672174eac0ccf9a62a8

The accessory structures to support the villagers’ livelihood were the ones I was  most drawn to.  There was the ice house with its triple pane windows. The simplicity of its design involved a basement to keep cool and a ground level access to retrieve ice.  Careful thermal management went into an upper food storage area with vents from the ice storage below and a cupola to let the warm air out completed with double hung doors.

IMG_6523

The use of exterior cladding materials were quite inventive and varied from building to building.  The recurring building form of a rectangular shaped house with the gable roof presented itself in a myriad of variations of the theme.  There were brick over a stone base, siding over brick, small bevel siding over large coursed siding, and yellow, white, red painted walls etc…

IMG_6470

IMG_6479

IMG_6483

IMG_6524

IMG_6537

IMG_6509

Here was a community that gave us the circular saw, the clothespin, the Shaker peg, a wheel driven washing machine, packaged seeds and numerous inventions.  All in all, the lesson was quite implicit in its message: there will always be individuality in a entity which aims for conformity and is even singular in its goal.

IMG_6519